Engine build 10/22/2006

There is a proper way to install this bearing. The small hole lines up with the drilling to the head surface.

This provides timed oiling rather than full pressure full time oil which would over-whelm the valve seals.

Odd as it seems 1 5/16 freeze plugs are no longer available in the US.

As a result I ordered 1 21/64 brass plugs and made a driver to install them

It's important to clean the fp bore of rust and de bur the hole to keep it from cutting the plug.

They do look nice and last forever.

I almost forgot, I like to use sealer anything will do .

I use 220 emery before the cleaning process to remove any varnish from the main bores.

I wipe the backs of mains and bores with acetone then snap them in place.

No oil or loctite nothing behind the bearings.

 Be sure you have the correct bearing. The U/S will be engraved in the back and there are two bearing tang locations so check.

I have a tube of moly lube I have had forever. A little dab of that and plenty oil.

Cranks get washed just like everything that goes in an engine.

Oil the bearing and sit it gently in place.

There is a front and back to thrust bearings. The copper side with grooves goes toward the crank thrust face.

Get this wrong and you buy a crank and maybe a block as well.

The bearing locking tangs in block and cap go to the same side of the block.

The front and rear caps are a little harder to get wrong

I snug the caps to seat the bearings.

If you don't want to that's OK. I strike the crank several times to make it vibrateand settle the bearings.

I tap fore and aft to align the thrust washers.

Then torque the main bolts which take a different figure than studs.

A gasket then the front plate.